Pattern Making Notes by Don McCunn
Swimsuit & Lingerie Edge Finishes
In preparing or my online patternmaking class Swimsuits, Lingerie, and Empire Dresses one of the things I noticed was how the same pattern could be used for different garments with one of the important differences being the type of edge finish.
As the information about the availability of these different edge finishes is important I created the following videos to show how to achieve each finish using scraps of fabric. As some of the materials used for these finishes may not be readily available I have included links to the online resource Fabric Depot. Susan of the Fabric Depot has been great about being an expert fabric and notions consultant for this class.
The edges of swimsuits can be created by sewing elastic to the wrong side of the fashion fabric, then turning the elastic and top stitching in place. Elastic for swimsuits should be salt water and chlorine resistant. One type is cotton elastic the other is rubber.
When you create patterns for this type of elastic, create a seam allowance, or what I call an elastic allowance, that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.
Lingerie can use the same edging technique as for swimwear or it can use elastic with a fancy picot edge or a plain edge but with a plush back for a softer texture. For fancy picot and plush back elastic, you sew the elastic to the good side of the fabric, trim off any excess allowance then turn it under.
When you create patterns for this type of elastic create an elastic allowance that is the width of the elastic. This elastic allowance becomes your guide for sewing the elastic.
Fold-Over elastic is a special type of elastic that folds over the edge of the garment. It sandwiches the fashion fabric between the two edges of the elastic. For this type of edge, the fashion fabric should be cut to the design line with no seam allowance.
Copyright © 2015 by Donald H. McCunn